Emollients | Uses, Types, And Benefits

What Is An Emollient?

An emollient, as defined rather broadly by the National Institutes of Health, is any substance that helps to increase your skin's moisture levels and soften or soothe irritated skin. Here’s a slightly more specific emollient definition that expounds on a description of the use and benefits of these substances: An oil-based ingredient that covers your dry skin in a healing film of natural fats (technically referred to as lipids). This coating seals your skin's surface, trapping moisture in your skin and helping to maintain your skin's hydration levels.

Emollients are often categorized as moisturizers, but the two are differentiated by their intended uses. An emollient is an ingredient in a moisturizer. The job of the emollient is to soften skin, while moisturizers contain other ingredients that help hydrate your skin. Soft, healthy skin absorbs and holds moisture better than dry, rough skin. Emollients do the heavy-lifting of softening the skin, so the moisturizers can perform their magic.

The list of emollients used in skin care products today is quite extensive. What follows is an abbreviated list of the more popular naturally-derived or nature-inspired emollients:

• Beeswax. Rich in vitamin A, with anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects.
• Coconut oil. Contains three fatty acids that possess disinfectant and antimicrobial properties; these fats help prevent moisture loss.
• Glycerin, also called glycerine or glycerol. Colorless, odorless, and non-toxic, it’s a natural compound derived from vegetable oils or animal fats.
• Lanolin. Also called wool yolk, wool wax, or wool grease, is secreted by the sebaceous glands of wool-bearing animals. Covers the skin with a protective film.
• Plant-based oils. Includes argan, avocado, castor, hemp, jojoba, rosehip, sunflower seed, and sweet almond oils. All are rich in fatty acids and have a great affinity with the skin; this allows them to be easily absorbed and shield the skin from water loss.
• Shea butter. Derived from shea tree nuts. Rich in oleic acid, a fatty acid that softens skin and helps reduce wrinkles.
  Urea. A component of the skin’s epidermis that is most often produced synthetically for skin-care products. Smooths out cracks and locks in moisture.
• Most often, these emollients are paired with other emollients, plus moisturizing ingredients that improve their skin-soothing and healing efficacy.

Emollients help your skin by increasing its softness, hydration, smoothness, and flexibility. They are used to help protect, heal and nurture skin, in all age groups. For example, many of the most effective diaper rash ointments and creams rely on emollients. Emollients also help manage dry, itchy or scaly skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. Some are used to help soothe mild to moderate skin burns from radiation treatments. Ultimately, emollient-enriched skin-care products help soften, hydrate, and protect the largest organ of the human body –  your skin.

One of the most well-researched benefits of emollients is for the treatment of eczema, with several studies showing that it helps reduce and prevent this common disorder. In some clinical trials, using natural plant-based emollients like sunflower oil or lanolin oil led to eczema improvements in as little as a few days.

Additional benefits of emollients include:

• Soothes skin that's dry from medical conditions like diabetes, psoriasis, kidney disease, hypothyroidism, etc.
• Helps prevents and treat dry skin due to environmental concerns, such as hot weather or cold, dry air.
• Reduces skin irritation from lifestyle routines, like frequent hand washing or bathing.
• Speeds up the healing time for surface skin injuries, such as sunburns.
• Helps prevent and treat concerns for those with very sensitive skin, such as diaper rash.
• Restores a more youthful complexion, because hydrated skin appears firmer and more plump (and thus minimizes the depth and severity of fine lines and wrinkles).
• Slows some signs of aging, because skin that has a healthy moisture barrier is more resistant to environmental factors.

1. Ointments: The thickest and richest form, ointments are ideal when your skin needs intensive moisture. Because they're oily, you may want to use them only at bedtime.
   
2. Butters: Rich, thick and nourishing, without the greasy feel of an ointment. Good for day and night use. (Often can be found in more eco-friendly packaging than other types of emollients.)
   
3. Creams: Though still substantial, emollient creams are less thick and oily than ointments, making them more suitable for repeated, all-day use.
   
4. Lotions: While they're thinner and more diluted than ointments and creams, lotions tend to be easy to use and absorbed quickly into your skin. Great for repeated use throughout the day.
   
5. Bath Soaps and Washes: Many conventional hand and body soaps contain detergents and other harsh ingredients that strip skin of its natural oils. Emollient-enhanced soaps and washes calm, cleanse, nourish and protect the skin.
   
6. Bath Additives: You can add emollients to your bath in the form of oils, bubble baths, soaks, and even fizz! These additives help reduce the drying effects of bathing, and add a thin, protective layer to your skin. Caution – they may make your bath slippery.

Whether you're trying to proactively protect your skin’s health or you're trying to treat a skin concern like excessive dryness or eczema, a few tips and tricks can help you get the most out of your emollients:

• Adjust for the time of day and your schedule: Use creams or lotions during the morning and afternoon, shower and bath additives when you're bathing, and an ointment at night before you go to bed.
• Always apply to moist skin. 
• Dab, don't rub. Rubbing your skin can exacerbate existing skin irritation and lead to micro-injuries that trigger wrinkles, fine lines and other signs of premature skin aging.
• Be proactive. If you know you're about to strip your skin of its natural moisture barrier, add an emollient ahead of time. For example, proactive use of emollients are very helpful in the winter, before you go swimming in a chlorinated pool, or applied to your face and mouth when you're coming down with a cold and know you'll be irritating your facial skin a lot.